Blog time : late June 2021 and we’re back from a short summer break – this morning is damp and cool but the amount of pollen in the air is almost painful, a big problem being the empty property behind our place which is dense with wild/long grass which is what gets me the most. If i get anything done it will be inside the workshop with the door shut ; that’s feasible because i should have just enough space to move the temporary bench in there which would allow me to continue work on the 2 boards. Just before we packed up to go on our break i left the project with the centerboard and rudder made as blanks and mostly profiled – to be honest both could be used as they are in terms of their shape but with a bit more work i can refine the wing sections and get the surface finish better before i coat them with resin and glass cloth. This post then will be mainly about finishing both boards and if the materials arrive also making the rest of the rudder and dry assembling the centerboard in it’s case.
As i write this post it’s several weeks and several work sessions since i ‘built’ the board – still several sessions to go !
Centerboard faired and filled again, plug cut out and ballast weight cast.
On the bench.
For me this part of the job was both funny, in a funny kind of way, and instructional in that i thought i had ‘made the board’ and it was all-but ready to go in the boat ; then i looked at it again and wrote out a short list of jobs to be done so….
Cast, fit and fair the first of the ballast weights.
Find the pivot point, drill a temporary pivot hole and shape the radius on that corner.
Make and fit the board lifting strap or eye.
Finish refining the trailing edge.
Finish the board’s top edge and radius the edges slightly.
Tape the board leading edge and then face the whole board each side with GRP cloth, filled and faired and finished with graphite.
Mock up the board case with temporary end spacers .
Make a decision on the lateral board position (off center) , mark and cut the board slot and the building frame risers so that the case can sit in it’s slot.
Dry fit the board inside one face + end and top spacers, find the pivot point and then radius the bottom and aft edge of the board such that it clears the aft board spacer.
Either make and fit a small Iroko shoe for the leading edge or do a similar job with some bronze strip (like a keel band)
Later….completely build the board case including it’s end logs and doublers, coat the inside with epoxy and glass cloth and finish with graphite.
Make HDPE spacers to take up any slack between the board and it’s case.
Have the pivot made from thick wallled stainless steel tube or find online and make at home.
Well…..today for example i spent all day just mocking up the position of the board in it’s case, eventually finding the right pivot position and putting a bolt in temporarily , then making a tool so that i could mark the radius of the aft edge of the board…..cutting the end/aft radius so that the board clears the aft edge of the case…..and this evening making and attaching a small Iroko shoe to protect the leading edge and the first few inches of the vulnerable board bottom.
Are we bored/board yet ?
No, not quite a board yet.